Welcome back, this week we have my final installment in the Leafeon series! This time around we’re looking at the finishing details of the costume, as well as the structure underneath the skirt. And of course, the previous parts of this series can be found here: Part 1, part 2, parts 3 & 4, parts 5 & 6, and part 7. Away we go!
Part 8: The Bustle
The bustle was by far the hardest part of this project. I followed a pattern purchased from Truly Victorian. The skirt was constructed much like any other skirt, with the addition of twill tape for boning channels and many flounces at the back.
Once the basic skirt was finished, I used a ruffler foot to make the many flounces. These began as a series of fabric strips stitched together at the selvedges, folded under twice at the bottom and zig zagged along the top. I then gathered the top with a ruffler foot and attached them to the back panel of the skirt.
Once the back panel was finished with bone casings and ruffles, I stitched the rest of the skirt. As soon as this was done, I stiffened the bustle with plastic corset boning from the fabric store. Unfortunately, this boning ended up being too weak to hold up the skirts and collapsed. I ended up replacing this boning with 1/4 “ plastic piping from the hardware store, creating a much more rigid and shapely bustle.
Part 9: Miscellaneous Work
Once the dress was complete, the remaining work was in the small details.
[1.] Arnold, Janet. Patterns of Fashion 2. London: Macmillan, 1977. Print. [2.] “Day dress, 1873-75. Museum no. T.112 to B-1938. Given by Miss M. Eyre-Poppleton” Victoria and Albert Museum. Web, March 1st 2015. <http://www.vam.ac.uk/users/node/5672> [4.] ArtStor. Web, < http://www.artstor.org> [5.] Carol Belanger Grafton. Victorian Fashions: A Pictorial Archive. New York: Dover, 1999. Print. [8.] Reader’s Digest. New Complete Guide to Sewing: Step-by-Step Techniques for Making Clothes and Home Accessories. 2002. Print. [9.] Tortora, Phyllis G. and Eubank, Keith. Survey of Historic Costume, 5th Edition. New York: Fairchild Books, 2010. Print. [10.] Reader’s Digest Association (Canada) Ltd. Complete Guide to Needlework. 1979. Print.
Thanks for reading! That’s all I have for Leafeon. You can find the finished pictures of this costume in the costume gallery.